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OK, so there’s been a bit of chatter about some schools that are instituting a ban on smartphones in schools these days. And I have to admit, I’m kind of a fan of this. Smartphones are a window into the myriad of distractions in the world today.. I’m a victim of the same. Sometimes too much information is simply too much.
So, after I considered this for a moment, I thought about the simple exercise of wearing a watch. I do recall one of my classmates who thought it was clever to write the answers to a test on the face of his watch. And no, I had no association with coaching him in this exercise! This was in the day when a bell was manually rung to indicate a change of class rooms. Imagine that! I also recall a young teacher who came into the shop about 10 years ago and noticed our “Slap Watches”, modestly priced at under $10 and asked if she could get a discount if she bought about 20 of them. I said, "Certainly". Then she explained that she wanted to offer her students an opportunity to learn how to read time on an analog watch. GREAT IDEA! So why the ban on smart phones? Well, I’m sure most of my readers will admit that we all waste a lot of time on the phone, myself included. But when these young minds are literal sponges, shouldn’t what they soak up be something of great use in the future development of their being a productive part of society and not the latest Tick-tock (no pun intended) or Instagram reel? I’ll admit, I would love to see more school kids wearing a watch on their wrist. It’s a simple device, and in my opinion, full of magic, mechanical (or electronic) prowess, history and wonder that brought me into this profession. They don’t need to get instant messaging from their classmates, or the score of a rival team. They just simply need to be on time! I had an employee once who would, almost predictably, be late to open the shop. His excuse? My alarm didn’t go off. “Ah, but you work in a shop that is all about time. Want a reliable alarm clock? I have a few.” I’m getting too old for such excuses. There’s an argument that the phone offers information that can assist in educating our children. I’m not about to doubt that. But unlike general education which has served us all well for generations, there are the basics that can not necessarily be garnished from a smartphone. Being on time is certainly one of them. My father said frequently, “If you are not 5 minutes early, you are late.” The legendary Paul Newman had a wonderful watch, a Rolex Daytona. It was inscribed by Joanne Woodward “Drive Carefully, Me”. As the story goes, Newman’s daughter’s boyfriend at the time was given the watch and told “Keep it wound and it keeps pretty good time”. The boyfriend sold the watch at auction in 2017 for over $17,000,000. I doubt a smartphone would ever achieve that kind of status. Wear it on your wrist! Cheers, Dave The story of timekeeping is one of constant innovation, but perhaps no technological crossroads has been more culturally profound than the emergence of digital watches in contrast to their analog ancestors.
The earliest mechanical timepieces were faceless. In a relatively advanced metropolitan area, there might be a clock, but it was no more than a collection of gears, weights and an escapement. The only other feature of note was a bell, to toll the passing of an hour, give or take. Then, about the late 13th century, came a dial and an hour hand, an amazing addition to the townspeople as one could not just hear, but see the time on the clock face. How long is it until we meet?.... There it is. So we leap forward, the Pulsar P1 was introduced and was the first electronic digital watch. Its accuracy far superior to almost any mechanical watch in the day. But there were digital mechanical pocket watches that were made in the 1890’s and in some cases much earlier. Was it innovation or a creative affinity for something different? Maybe both. Watches and clocks were originally for the wealthy. Mechanical curiosities that served a purpose, but also to impress one’s guest. That being said, it wasn’t long before timepieces were affordable to the masses. Being innovative, the industry supported the needs of its customers. There’s a striking similarity happening now. The next best thing in cars, solar, computers, space travel…. These all contribute to the betterment of the world, I hope, and yet these newest of technologically advanced products are available initially to the wealthy, not unlike owning a fine watch in the 1600’s. Maybe in a few years, personal flying cars will be available for anyone to purchase with average means. Watches have evolved fantastically over the last 100 years. And I’ll get this out right now, the Apple Watch is not a watch just because it tells time on your wrist. It is a wrist computer. There’s nothing “watch” about it, other than the aforementioned. That being said, there are phenomenal advancements in electronic technology that mechanical technology can’t touch. But there’s nothing more pleasing to the eye than the fluidity and polished motion of a balance wheel and ticking of the escapement a fine watch can offer, over a computer microchip. No offense to those who would appreciate the chip. As an aside, I have heard on a local level that the schools are switching to digital clocks in the rooms because the students have a hard time reading analog. For me, I’ve always seen the passage of time on a watch face as fluid. There’s the past and there’s the future. In the digital world, the seconds flicker by, as lights turn off and on in precise intervals. There is no past and no future, it is in the moment. “You called at 7:21:06” is digital. Analog, “You called about 7:15”. I prefer the analog. In the end, the analog‑vs‑digital debate isn't just about technology—it’s a reflection of values: tradition versus innovation, artistry versus efficiency. Whether entwined with legacy or designed for the digital age, both types of timepieces tell more than time—they tell stories. It’s been WAY too long since I last made an entry to the Journal. To all my faithful readers, my apologies. The downsizing of the shop to upstairs was a bit of a challenge, but has proven to be no more than a speed bump and I couldn’t be happier with the customer traffic we’ve been seeing… So, thank you! And without further adieu, after some time off, this is my latest entry. Swiss watches are the gold standard for luxury and precision, with brands like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet commanding top prices. But their popularity has led to a booming counterfeit market, costing the industry an estimated $3.5 billion annually in lost sales. Fake Swiss watches range from cheap knockoffs to high-end "super clones" that mimic genuine timepieces. With the rise of online shopping, these counterfeits are easier than ever to buy and sell. It’s estimated that up to 40 million fake Swiss watches are produced each year, compared to just 20 million genuine ones, meaning that for every real Swiss watch sold, two counterfeits are in circulation. The issue isn’t new—fake Swiss and American watches date back to the late 1800s when low-quality copies emerged, some originating from Switzerland in an effort to compete with the rising US market, damaging the reputation of Swiss-made timepieces. By the early 20th century, Swiss manufacturers began engraving "Swiss Made" on their watches to differentiate them from fakes. However, the problem persisted, leading to international agreements like the 1934 "Watch Ordinance" aimed at protecting the authenticity of Swiss timepieces. Over the years, I’ve observed Swiss made pocket watches with American sounding names like Southern Express, Dominion Railway, Grand Pacific. These were designed to fit into American made cases but were far inferior to US watches produced by Elgin, Waltham, Hamilton etc… who were making exceptional timepieces in greater numbers than the Swiss. After World War II, markets were flooded with counterfeit watches from Hong Kong, a major hub for cheap, mass-produced knockoffs. The 1970s and 1980s saw a rise in fake quartz watches, taking advantage of the electronic watch boom. By the 1990s, China had become the dominant force in counterfeit luxury watches, with an estimated 80% of fake watches now originating from the country. Today, advancements in manufacturing have led to "super clones" that are nearly indistinguishable from genuine Swiss watches, even down to the internal mechanics, some costing upwards of $500. Beyond lost revenue, counterfeit watches damage brand reputations and deceive customers. Many buyers unknowingly purchase fakes, only to be disappointed by poor quality and inaccurate timekeeping. Research suggests that nearly 30% of consumers who buy a fake watch believe it to be real. Worse, the counterfeit trade isn’t just about fooling consumers—it’s linked to unethical labor practices and organized crime. Reports have found that some counterfeit operations exploit child labor and fund illegal activities such as money laundering and smuggling. Luxury brands invest millions into anti-counterfeiting measures, including holograms, micro-engravings, unique serial numbers, and blockchain authentication. Some brands even use legal teams to track and shut down counterfeit operations, though enforcement remains a challenge due to lax intellectual property laws in some regions. Consumers play a key role in fighting counterfeit watches. Buying only from authorized dealers, verifying serial numbers, and avoiding deals that seem too good to be true are crucial steps in protecting oneself from fake timepieces. Counterfeit Swiss watches are more than just a nuisance. They threaten the industry, exploit workers, and mislead buyers. With fake watches now making up nearly two-thirds of the market, staying informed and buying from reputable sources is the best way to protect both consumers and the legacy of genuine Swiss craftsmanship. If you are from Montana, or as I’ve been since I was in my mid 20’s, one comes to relish the changes of the season, or at least I do. We’re in the peak of fall and the colors are in full glory. Crisp cool mornings, the occasional frost, but balmy days in the upper 60’s, are a match made for me.
But the days are getting shorter and there’s a slight sense of urgency with the lack of sunlight hours. And there is much to be done. I think we all feel it. Just for perspective that is specific to the length of a day in Bozeman, Montana, I thought I’d offer up a short delve on the web to find the facts. And the one site that gave me the most succinct and easy to use was this: https://www.timeanddate.com/ There’s a wealth of information to be garnished from this site. Welcome to another internet rabbit hole! Bozeman - Summer Solstice - Hours of daylight = 15.42. Hours of dark = 8.58 Bozeman Winter Solstice - Hours of daylight = 8.41. Hours of dark = 15.59 This never crossed my mind, but I just accepted it. But now seeing it in an actual numerical form, it cinched it for me. We are, here in Bozeman, about one hour shy of having a nearly equal number of hours of daylight at the summer solstice as we do darkness at the winter solstice, but I guess that would make sense. So part of this entry, long overdue as usual, is tied directly to the graphic image on the aforementioned site where I gathered these numbers. What I saw first hand are two grand shifts of one hour, in the year long tracking of the daylight hours of Bozeman. We and the rest of the country, except for the fortunate few, are due for a “Spring Ahead, Fall Behind”. Being in the industry, I’ve thought about the “why” of DST. I’ve researched the reasons for it. Some reasonable, maybe most due to timing and technology … indoor lighting! But I think we’re beyond what it was created for, maintained for or simply ignored because it was just too much to deal with. I’ve delved into the reasons why some states have opted out of switching their timepiece back and forth. Here’s one: Why does Arizona not recognize DST? AI answer according to google: “because of the state's hot desert climate and the additional energy consumption that would result from the longer days.” Longer days? On a colloquial level, there was a quote that resonated with me many years ago with regards to DST. No evidence supporting this was actually verified, but it appears to me to be appropriate. A Native American chief is said to have remarked about daylight saving time, "Only the government would believe you could cut a foot off the top of a blanket, sew it to the bottom, and have a longer blanket". I’d like to meet that chief. As I sit at my bench, I can follow the times of the day that the morning sun blazes through my window. Most of the time, my eyes would be nearly vertical to the bench, but when I lift my head up, there’s the sun, screaming through the window, later and later as the autumn months pass. Personally, I would prefer the government not tell me when to set my clocks or watches ahead or behind. So for those wanting to delve into the understanding, history and effects of DST, please have a peek, here, another rabbit hole - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daylight_saving_time= In the meantime, be well. Dave
Well, if you haven’t been to the Last Wind-Up lately, it’s about time…. Or at least that is how the saying usually goes. But this time, there’s more to tell.
In the fall of 2023, I was faced with a decision that I did not take lightly. For a number of reasons, I decided that it was time for downsizing. This was a difficult decision, but one that in the end, I trust will still fulfill my passion for watches as well as offer my customers the same service we’ve offered for the last 33 years; a great selection of new and pre-owned watches, the best service and an intimate place in downtown Bozeman to meet and share the passion for the craft. In December, we moved upstairs into the Mezzanine of 11 E. Main Street. Some of you might have already visited my facilities upstairs. For those who have not, I’d encourage you to stroll down the hallway and follow the signage to the Mezzanine location. We’ve shortened our hours of operation to Tuesday - Friday, 10-4 and by appointment for those who are not able to make it during those times. I will admit, there are a few customers who were a little confused about this move. We still have not gotten the old sign restored and mounted to the outside of the building… but soon. But what I will say I’ve been flabbergasted by the response from most customers. It is such a great feeling to hear “I’m so glad you are still here”. “You are what Bozeman is all about”.... This warms my heart and feeds my continued enthusiasm for keeping Bozeman ticking! About a month ago, I was contacted by a father and son team who are also passionate about watches and have their own YouTube channel. I, having started my journey into watches at a young age, figured that I’d better do my part and participate in an interview with John and his son Elliot. You can watch the video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kDotIqrB6fY or simply go to their channel Father and Son Watch Talk. Once they got me going, as some of you will know, I filled the interview with a lot of anecdotal stories about my beginnings and subsequent travels through this career. Have a look if you are interested. Most recently, my wife and I took our spring break to Puerto Rico and then on to Culebra, a small island off the coast, about an hour ferry ride. While in Old Town San Juan, which I will say is an enchanting place, we walked, ate and enjoyed all that we could. I even managed to pop into a few watch shops. One in particular I will mention was Rolmalco. We approached the door just after closing… but I pulled out one of my business cards and showed them through the door that I too was a watchmaker. Without hesitation, they opened up their shop to chat. A family business. The father, originally from Columbia, his wife, son and another watchmaker. . We chatted like we’d known each other. Their graciousness and enthusiasm for the business was obvious and heartwarming. If I ever go back to Old San Juan, I will make it a point to visit with them again and maybe even share a meal. Back in Bozeman following spring break, we were spoiled with great weather…. Highs in the 60’s and 70’s… but alas, it is Montana and it is currently snowing. No yard work this weekend. That will have to wait! In the meantime, I wish to thank all of my customers, staff and fellow watch enthusiasts for their continued support and patronage. Where would I be without you? Dave Sitting here at my desk at home, I’m staring out the windows at the rain shifting directions as is usual at this time of year in Montana. The wind whips the aspen from one direction to the next. Late afternoon or early evening thunder boomers are not uncommon. It’s time to write another journal entry. But this one is, somewhat like my last, a bittersweet one. One never knows what singular event might change the course of one’s life. I barely got into a small private boarding school and I barely got out of it. That is to say, I was not a scholar in typical form. Grades were not the proving ground for me. I was a C student at best. Needless to say, that’s where I met a gentleman who was hired by the school for $1.00 a year…. He was retired and essentially offered his expertise to help in the chemistry and physics labs. He also held a class (not graded) called Timepieces. This is where the seed was planted. The first time I saw the workings of a pocket watch, I was smitten. It was, as the legendary George Daniels put it, a universe in itself. It combined the most delicate and precise mechanical engineering, the most elaborate decorative features (admittedly superfluous in regards to function) as well as a historical encyclopedia of advancements that culminated in something as “simple” as a watch! Metallurgy, thermodynamics, engraving, precious metal work, enameling and more. There was something about all of these artisans that brought this apparently simple thing, a watch, into a new realm for me. Fast forward… I was accepted, first in my high school class, into college. Maybe it was because of this fascination with watches, maybe not. Either way, the first two years of college were not building a foundation of a career. I would spend idle time in my dorm room tinkering on watches that I’d ordered via dealers through the mail. Then, my parents were wondering….. To make a long story short, I ended up in London, working for A-1 Watch and Clock Shop. Following that, I was offered an internship at Christie's Auction House in New York City. What a GREAT opportunity! Then, with some life experience under my belt, I completed my college education in Boston and opened up a small repair shop in the North End. In 1990, I packed up and moved to Bozeman to open up the Last Wind-Up. The main focus of this particular entry was that no matter what you might think you will become, there’s a good chance that this will change, or at least be modified. And it is part of this transformation that has brought me here. One summer, while working in the financial district for the firm my father was employed by, I showed him a watch that I’d just recently purchased at a watch trade show. I told him how proud I was that I’d purchased it for at least half of the book value. He said, very plainly, “it’s not worth twice what you paid until you sell it for twice what you paid.” Lesson learned! My father offered me another piece of advice. “I don’t care what you do in life. As long as you are happy and productive, success will find you.” I can’t say enough about his words of wisdom and I’ve passed that on to my kids as well. Dad passed this year, about a week after his 85th birthday, on May 25th. He offered me the watch that was given to him by his parents on his 21st birthday. I hold it dear to my heart as I know he knew I would treasure it and honor it with care and admiration, as I have his generosity enabling me to pursue my passion. RIP, Dad. Your legacy will endure! Dad and his grandfather, 1940
There was a day when watch companies would generously offer spare parts for their watches to watchmakers and parts houses, across the country. This was a way of assuring timely and professional repairs for their watches. I have drawers full of original material from specific brands, mostly vintage, but some contemporary too: Elgin, Hamilton, Waltham, Gruen, Bulova as well as Swiss brands such as Rolex, Omega etc… But in recent years, some of these brands have begun restricting the sale of these parts for one reason or another. A simple gasket or mainspring, stem, crown etc… should not prevent the watchmaker from fulfilling a customer’s request for a repair of their timepiece. But companies are placing requirements of certification in an effort to restrict the sale of their parts. Some require a 1-2 week class in a service center in an effort to assure control of their parts distribution. Rolex is in the limelight as one of the most restrictive. One must be CW21 (certified watchmaker 21st century) in an effort to apply for a parts account. This would require years of training and then passing their testing requirements. But then, on a whim, that account gets closed. I’ve heard of watchmakers who have had an account for decades, only to be sent the fateful letter stating that they are no longer able to buy parts. They would, on occasion, send a representative to the business, unannounced, only to be scrutinized (with photographs and notes) as to the condition of the workshop. If you had aftermarket parts in stock, you’re axed! If you did not have the latest water pressure testing equipment (north of $13,000), then you would be cut off. I could get into the whole John Deere debacle of the same kind, but craftsmen as well as farmers and automobile enthusiasts and repair shops should be able to buy spare parts, tools and electronics without encumbrances from the companies that made those parts. They purchased the tractor, they should be allowed to fix it and be offered technical assistance from the company that made the tractor. In the real world, there are good technicians and not so good technicians. Those who excel in their world are successful and maintain a good livelihood. Those who are less than skilled, will fall by the wayside as customers will stop requesting their services. Survival of the fittest. Last month we lost a skilled legend, Barry J. Marcus. My very first journal entry was about Barry, back in 2017. Barry was staunchly devoted to his craft as a watchmaker, servicing both modern and vintage watches In the final pages of his book, Watches I Have Known, which he co-authored with his daughter Julie Campisi, he sends a letter to the American Watch and Clockmakers Institute, canceling his membership. He mentioned how the industry used to be and then what it had become, something he did not recommend to his grandson, sadly. I still believe there is a need for craftsmen and women and we clearly need to make available the training and parts to be able to fix stuff ourselves and not be beholden to a giant corporation. I hope we never come to the point where, as Barry wrote, “Would the government permit General Motors to state the installation of the DieHard battery rather than a Delco to negate the guarantee of the car? What next?” I will close with Barry’s obituary, RIP. MILFORD - Barry J. Marcus, 88, of Milford passed away peacefully on Tuesday, January 17, 2023, surrounded by his loving family. He was born in Lawrence, MA on November 17, 1934, to Israel and Betty (Rappaport) Marcus. Barry was best known for his love of repairing watches. He was a fourth-generation watchmaker who began learning the family trade at age 10. He worked alongside his father at Marcus Jeweler on Main Street, Milford until becoming its owner, in 1971, after his father retired. In 1986, Barry opened his watch repair shoppe. He loved visiting with friends and customers, while repairing their watches. Barry built a reputation on high skill and more than fair pricing. His specialty was restoring family heirlooms. Barry understood that a watch’s sentimental value was more important than its monetary value. In 2014, Barry and daughter Julie self-published “Watches I Have Known” a compilation of his Papa Barry stories. Barry did not retire. He was often in the shoppe 7 days a week. Right up until he passed away, he was asking to go to the shoppe, there were watches waiting for him. Barry proudly served in the U.S. Navy as an Instrumentman on the U.S.S. Frontier. He was an avid sailor berthing a sailboat on Narragansett Bay until 2017. He was active in the Milford community serving on the Milford Retail Board of Trade, Concerned Citizens, B’nai Brith, president, the Woodland and Brookside School Building Committees, Rotary Club, president 1971-1973, and a long time Town Meeting Member. Barry was a member of Congregation Etz Chaim in Biddeford, Maine. One aspect of watch repair and restoration that often goes overlooked are the craftsmen and women that offered their services to a particular watch. Manufacturers get a lot of hype and some independent watchmakers make it to stardome, but what about the average repairman? Where’s their legacy? They are most often shrouded in the minuscule codes, lightly hand scratched in the back of a watch case. What are those scratches on the inside of a watch case-back? Over the years, many folks have asked me about these and the answer is simple… but often shrouded in mystery. In my 35 years or so as a professional watchmaker, I’ve serviced thousands of timepieces. Some of these date back into the early 1800’s. And many, if not all of these timekeepers, had a number of hand scratched insignia or code on the case protecting the movement, be it a wrist watch or a pocket watch. I’ve seen watches that have the same “signature” with coded dates offered three or more in a row, showing that the owner of the watch had the watch serviced by the same watchmaker many times over the years. Historically, with regards to pocket watches, many early repairmen would put a thin piece of paper in the back of a watch case as an advertisement, while also incidentally, protecting the case from rattling in its outer case. Having to open the watch case daily to wind the key- wound timepiece, the owner would no doubt have viewed this watch paper hundreds of times. On the reverse, the watchmaker would put an abbreviated notation of what was done to the watch. “℅” was for clean and oil. “BS” was for balance staff and “MS” for mainspring. And sometimes one might find the prices that the watchmaker charged the owner. When English and early American watches were housed in standardized cases and key wound watches lost favor to stem wound watches, using paper in the backs of watch cases faded and short codes were scratched into the case-back of pocket watches. Some of these were issued by the American Watch and Clockmakers Institute, and others were of their own design.
For nearly 30 years, I’ve simply put my initials along with the month and year. Others still use the code that they were offered by one institute or something that they simply devised themselves. It would offer the watchmaker a reference as to when he last serviced the watch. Now, with computer based record keeping, the need for a scratched insignia is not so necessary. In fact, in the last 10-15 years, I’ve seen numerous Rolex watches with the “Sharpie” insignia, TXRLX, meaning the Rolex service center in Dallas, Texas. In the last year or two, I’ve come across signatures from a watchmaker I know (and have gone fishing with) from Portland. I try my best to keep my signature small and unobtrusive, but I like the fact that my horological “graffiti tag” might someday be noticed. I’ve seen a handful of watches that I serviced 10-20 years ago. It’s kind of like seeing a distant friend again. Hopefully, a watchmaker in 50 years or so might see my signature and acknowledge my workmanship and not look down upon it but only see the restorative skills that I’ve offered the watch to bring it back to working condition. The peak of the summer season is in full swing here in Bozeman and there’s much to be grateful for. The last few summers have been consumed with smoke filled skies from the forest fires here in Montana and to the west of us, not to mention covid. Thankfully, we’ve not been subjected to that kind of calamity thus far this season. In early June, we had a torrential downpour that overwhelmed the Yellowstone River as it leaves Yellowstone National Park. Roads were washed away, bridges were destroyed and homes were literally swept into the river. This was devastating to the people and businesses that thrive along the river and those that border the park. Thankfully, the community rallied and within a few weeks, most of the park was open. All of us in Southwest Montana feel privileged to be on the edge of such a natural treasure. Please consider supporting the communities bordering the park to help bring their livelihood back to normalcy.
The shop has been busy as usual this time of year. Locals and tourists are out and about, keeping the businesses on Main Street busy. I felt compelled this evening as I sat at home in an empty house…. wife Amy is at a music venue in the Paradise Valley and daughter Brenna is at camp, to write about a customer that came into the shop today. Originally from Mexico City, he now resides in Salt Lake City with his wife. When he came in, I had no idea of his passion for watches. We shared stories, exchanged feelings about certain elements of watches and essentially had a great visit. What struck me most about this visit was that he’d seen an article or posting on a site about the Last Wind-Up and decided that he and his wife would take a road trip to Bozeman to visit my store. WOW. How could I not spend time with a guy who was so smitten with watches and virtually enthralled with my shop to drive that distance, just to see me? It was an honor. This is exactly what it’s all about. There are folks who look at a watch and think it is just a time-piece and there are those who understand that there is much more to the story. Be it a new piece or an heirloom watch with provenance of the original owner, each watch has a story and a potential history. My wife, last night as we were settling into bed, suggested (actually insisted), that I write down the stories of the watches and clocks that I personally own. “They are all in your head….and you need to write them down”. This brings to mind my very first journal post about Barry Marcus, a watchmaker from Milford, Mass. His book, Watches I Have Known, is about the people who own the watches…. Maybe I should listen to my wife and write about the watches and clocks of my collection. They all have a story and unless it is preserved, they are lost for future generations. A saying I heard once, kind of sums it up. “You never see a U-Haul following a hearse”. My customer from Salt Lake recalled his dad, still alive, wearing a Mido wrist watch and still does. I asked if he had been promised it after his passing. He said no…. but I hope he someday becomes the new caretaker of the watch his father has worn for so many years. With the summer upon us, there is fishing in the future. Off to Idaho in a week or so for new waters with Oscar (my certified watch-dog). Tight lines! Maybe I’ll bring the laptop and start my version of Watches (and clocks) I’ve known. Be well. |
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